By John Fitzgerald
From the landmark Burq al Arab with its distinctive sail-shape design to the Madinat Jumeirah resort complex that resembles an ancient Arabian citadel, Dubai, which loves to put on the dog, has plenty of flamboyant luxury hotels.
But for affluent travelers with a taste for less showy surroundings, the One and Only Royal Mirage Hotel is the place to kick back in style. Arguably the toniest resort in this commercial hub of the oil-rich United Arab Emirates, the Royal Mirage sits aside its own kilometer long beach in the frenetically developing Jumeirah Beach district facing the Arabian Gulf.
With recently constructed skyscrapers visible beyond the tops of its gorgeously manicured hedges, The Royal Mirage is a seductive oasis in a city that is being rapidly transformed into what its boosters trumpet as the Singapore of the Middle East. The hotel is part of One & Only Resorts that includes luxury boutique properties in Mexico, The Bahamas, Mauritius and The Maldives.
Opened in 1999 with the 250-room The Palace, designed in beautifully restrained Arabian style, the Royal Mirage now encompasses two other buildings on a meandering 65-acre site. With 162 guestrooms and 10 suites, The Arabian Court is the centerpiece that links The Palace and exclusive The Residence. Fronted by a long reflecting pool, the Arabian Court’s guestrooms have balconies or terraces with views of the sea.
So seductive are the surroundings that there’s some question as whether you want to be inside or out. Thanks to the size of the property and its meticulously restrained design, with an abundance of secluded arches and pathways bordered by high hedges, you rarely see a soul even if the hotel is full.
There’s a substantial British presence in Dubai and that’s reflected at The Royal Mirage, especially given the strength of the pound. Other guests come from the Gulf States as well as mainland Europe. Various entertainment figures in the Arab world have also been to stay.
For pure indulgence, stay in The Residence & Spa that’s a member of Leading Small Hotels of the World. With its own separate staff, The Residence has 48 guestrooms and suites which come with private balcony or garden patio. A three-tiered tray of biscuits and sweets is set on your bedside table every evening and comfortable plastic sandals sit atop a crisp linen mat on the carpeted floor.
The décor in the rooms is a pleasing hodgepodge of Middle East and Occidental styles with teak lattice screens and hanging brass lanterns. Festooned with colorful silk cushions, the king size bed is an enticing draw as is the oversized bathroom with mega tub and more fluffy towels and facecloths that you possibly know what to do with.
Male wait and household staff, mainly from South Asia, wear desert beige, pajama style uniforms as they move about, unfailingly friendly and efficient. I don’t how many times during my three day stay that I asked the reception desk to download photo images from my camera onto a CD. Each time, I received a full disc back within 10 minutes, despite how busy staff was.. As I was leaving the hotel at 6 a.m. to catch an early flight, continental breakfast was delivered promptly and with a smile at 5:15 a.m.
There are several casual and fine dining venues and two lounges on the resort. Dishes such as braised lamb shank with potato and roasted garlic salad are served in Olives, the all day restaurant in The Palace. Meanwhile, in The Arabian Court, Nina, with Indo-European décor, including hanging beads, a profusion of candles, and hip lounge music, is noted for the tomato butter chicken in spiced yoghurt. Tagine offers excellent Moroccan cuisine and The Roof Top lounge, for pre or post dinner cocktails and oriental mezzehs is one of the most beautiful places in the city to wind down after a day of business.
Set amidst palm trees and water fountains on the hotel’s grounds, the Health & Beauty Institute is the oasis within the oasis. With rooftop domes and cleverly carved arches, the building has two levels.
On the upper floor is the luxurious Givenchy Spa, the Paris-based House of Givenchy’s first such venture in the Middle East. On the lower level is an authentic Oriental Hammam that’s pure indulgence. Similar to a Turkish bath, the hammam’s high domed, steam-filled main room with its hanging lanterns and huge marble slab for scrub downs is fabulous, as are the rigorous, invigorating treatments.
I say that, having spent roughly three hours being scrubbed, pummeled, doused, messaged and groomed.
At sundown, with the harsh desert light soft and subtle as it plays off the graceful angles and curves of The Royal Mirage’s three interconnecting wings, it’s possible to believe every cliché about the romance and mystery of the Middle East.
Information:
One & Only Royal Mirage, Jumeirah Beach; 971-4-399-99-99; www.oneandonlyroyalmirage.com. A taxi to the airport takes 20 minutes, depending upon traffic.